A Stitching Odyssey

I usually steer clear of me-mades that you have to practically remove just to pop to the loo, but found it hard to resist the Safiya Dungarees that stitchers have been making in their hoards. It's one of six patterns featured in Make it Simple, the latest book from Tilly and the Buttons.

My heart was set on making this in some double gauze from my stash, but try as I may, I didn't quite have enough at the time. Emma has since kindly come through for me, so a second version could be on the horizon. In the meantime, I settled on a cotton lawn from my stash instead and I think it works really well as it's breezy to wear and layers up well with lots of different tops in my wardrobe.

I made a straight size 4, shortening the straps and trouser length, as well as taking in the bodice sides a smidge. Ideally, I would have gone a size smaller for the bodice, but as the pattern doesn't have any fastenings, I wouldn't have been able to pull it over my hips and bum. My bust/hip to waist ratio is always what puts me off loose styles, but the fabric belt helps to give it some shaping and it's been super comfy to wear while working from home during the pandemic.

If I do make a second version, I'll probably size down and add a side zip or front buttons. I've seen some gorgeous versions which are more fitted, so it's very tempting.

I had some leftover fabric, so I made myself a matching face covering...such are the times we're living in. It's the popular free pattern from Dhurata Davies, made with three layers of fabric and featuring nose/chin shaping. You can even add a filter and nose wire if you wish, though I didn't for this version. It's a really great pattern, but doesn't quite offer the coverage of the 3D one by Romilda Dias which I shared a tutorial for here if you're interested.

Have you made any of the three versions of the Safiya pattern? Which is your favourite? I've also made the trouser version and I can't wait to share it with you because I'm truly smitten!

Monday, August 17, 2020

It's taken 11 years into my sewing journey for me to give shirring a go - that's how averse to change and failure I am. Ridiculous, I know! I'm so glad I finally ventured out of my comfort zone though and it's all thanks to the super cute Raspberry pattern from Cocowawa Crafts. I was seriously torn between the jumpsuit, playsuit and dress options, eventually opting for the former.

Needless to say, I watched a lot of YouTube videos about shirring, most of which made it look like the easiest thing in the world. But the method you need to use seems to depend on your brand of sewing machine.

Mine required me to take my bobbin case out and tighten the tension for it to shirr, which was a very scary prospect. What made it a bit less daunting though, was this tutorial by Ana (the beautiful human behind Cocowawa Crafts), who calmly and expertly guides you through the various steps you may need to take for success.

This make would have been my entry for Portia's Refashioners 2020, which was thoughtfully cancelled to allow for a more inclusive and representative line-up in the future. This year's challenge was to give a new lease of life to unloved/unused textiles from around your home like bedding, tablecloths, towels and old garments.

It was the perfect opportunity for me to use these vintage curtain or table runner panels I found in a charity shop once upon a time. The cotton is surprisingly soft to handle so perfect for shirring, plus the colours and print are just so stunning. It had been in my stash for years as yellow's not a great pairing with my skin tone, but I think I can just about get away with this?!?

I shortened the bodice by 4cm and added those to the crotch length instead, which thankfully worked a treat. I also had to shorten the trouser length by quite a bit (maybe 8cm) and tapered them in by 2cm below the knee. I'm pretty happy with the final fit though and it required minimum effort to get there which is always a win.

The only downside is that the bodice does sit a little high at the underarms, as it's a rectangle. Being a shirring novice, I've no idea if shaping the bodice piece would be possible, but I might be tempted to try it next time. It's absolutely not a deal-breaker for this version though.

Naturally I had to make the ruffled straps as they're pretty AND they're better at covering bra straps. I'm not a massive fan of elasticated waists, so to hide the evidence I made a fabric belt and used this tutorial by Melly Sews to add handworked thread loops. Of course, the finishing flurry had to be a matching label from Modista's gorgeous French-inspired collection.

I really went to town with my stripe placement on this make, which was no mean feat as I was working with three narrow fabric panels, requiring a lot of pattern Tetris and cutting out on single layers. I'm so happy I went to all of that effort though, because the end result is exactly what I was hoping for!

The Raspberry Jumpsuit gets a big thumbs up from me. Are you a fan of the pattern?

Friday, July 24, 2020

Long time no post, friends. I've actually been relatively productive on the sewing front during lockdown, but seem to have lost the appetite to photograph myself in my makes. The backlog was stressing me out though, so I made a start last weekend.

This was originally a straight Republique du Chiffon Violette Dress, which I made for last year's summer party hosted by Hannah and Rosie of The New Craft House. You can see me wearing it here, but suffice to say that I wasn't a fan of the relaxed bodice on me. However, I was a huge fan of the tiered skirt and the gorgeous viscose from Like Sew Amazing, so I was determined to refashion it into a dress worthy of my friend's dreamy Tuscan wedding last August.

I had just enough fabric left over for a By Hand London Flora Dress bodice and I even managed to piece a belt together too. The transformation was absolutely worth the hours of unpicking the zip and overlocked waist seam, gathers and all. I felt totally fabulous swanning around in it at the wedding!

Annoyingly, I omitted the customary waist stay I like to add when sewing with viscose, so there is a bit of sagging at the front skirt. Also, I made a lot of adjustments to the Flora bodice at the time to get a perfect fit, which isn't really reflected here as my shape has changed a fair bit since then. I think the belt does a great job at hiding these niggles though and it sure is a comfortable wear.

Overall, I'm really happy with this combination of patterns - which I've named Florette - and would love to make a solid version in linen maybe. I know, I know...who even am I?!?

I'll finish with a confession, because it's bugging me and I need to come clean. Have you noticed the difference in lipstick colour and lighting in some of these photos? It's because we took the first batch with the pink lipstick and the lovely lighting first...before I realised that my zip was only halfway done up on the back bodice. Sadly, this made the fit look terrible in the front and back shots but we didn't have time to reshoot straight away due to a family Zoom quiz (the 'gift' that keeps on giving in lockdown). By the time the quiz had finished the day turned grey and rainy and I forgot that I'd changed my lipstick! We could have reshot everything on a different day, but I really liked some of the original takes, so I begrudgingly settled on mixing the two.

The trials and tribulations of being a blogger, eh!?! I'd love to hear about your quirky photoshoot stories in the comments...

Thursday, July 09, 2020

We're partial to a bit of twinning, my sewing bestie Amy (Almond Rock) and I, but this time we've really outdone ourselves! We've made matching PJs out of this crazy cat print seersucker and have decided to throw a Pyjama Pictionary Party to celebrate. The best part is, you're all invited!

You can join us live by tuning into Amy's YouTube channel this Saturday (25 April) at 7.30pm (BST). We'll chat a bit, play a bit and there are kickass goodies up for grabs too. You can enter the prize draw and even help plan the party here - just send us your sewing-related Pictionary suggestions and any burning questions you want us to answer on the night.

It all started when I found this bonkers fabric on Leicester market more than a year ago. I had no idea what I would do with it, but that didn't stop me from buying a small bolt. It's quite a sheer seersucker with a subtle plaid pattern and the scruffiest little kitties all over it.

Inspiration eventually struck and I decided to gift Amy some if she agreed to make matching sleepwear with me (always read the small print before accepting gifts). Reader, she said yes!

Do you like my cute lil rainbow label? It's from Paige Joanna.

I paired mine with the Nina Lee Piccadilly pattern, which is incredibly sweet, and they've turned out pretty darned cute. It was my first time using the pattern and I made up a straight size 12, leaving out the Mandarin collar as it's not a detail I love on myself.

The fit is quite good, but next time I'd probably add an inch to the crotch rise to accommodate my fuller butt. Also, I think I would pinch a centimetre or so out of the shoulders and tweak the armhole a little as movement is a tad restricted (I like to do big yawns with my arms stretched out).

The most time-consuming part of this pattern is sewing on the bias tape which creates the darling details on the pockets, sleeves and along the hems. Once that was all done though, I sped through the rest, which felt really satisfying.

So that's the story of pussycat Piccadilly pyjamas - do you like them? And more importantly, will we see you at our Pyjama Pictionary Party on Saturday?

Wednesday, April 22, 2020

I can't quite believe how much life has changed in one month. Back in February, while coronavirus was gaining momentum worldwide, we were still free to come and go as we pleased in the UK. While our current locked down status is absolutely necessary, I'm so grateful that I got to catch up with sewing friends in the flesh at various events just weeks before.

One such event was The New Craft House Galentine's Party. The night itself was such a giggle, made even sweeter by the fact that Amy of Almond Rock and I won the #SewingWife bingo, for which our matching fabric choice definitely gave us the edge.

We both randomly bought this gorgeous cupid/cherub print viscose twill from Ditto Fabrics a while back with no real plan in mind, until the perfect occasion revealed itself. When Hannah and Rosie announced their party, I knew I had to use this fabric and I knew exactly which pattern to pair it with.

I'd been lusting over the stunning Solina dress in Breaking the Pattern by Named for ages, so I seized the chance to finally make it. Something about the whimsical ties and floaty silhouette really called to me, especially after seeing SO many amazing versions on Instagram.

I think I made a straight size 4 (or 5...I can't remember) and miraculously, I didn't have to shorten the bodice for the ties to hit at my natural waistline. I also didn't have to shorten the sleeves, which was another pleasant surprise. However, I removed 15cm off the length, and I probably could have trimmed more off.

Inspired by a number of clever stitchers, I lengthened the waist ties to 80cm each so I could wrap them all the way around as I was worried about how the 'shift' shape would look like on me from the back. I'm pretty happy with the result.

I was gutted that I had to sacrifice the centre skirt slit because I didn't have enough fabric, so I'd love to include that feature next time. For a second version I would also pinch a small wedge out of the front neckline and tweak the back bodice as it's a little too long, giving me a slight hunchback. Even though the ties are one of my favourite elements of the sleeves, I would probably skip them again as they're so impractical.

All in all, I felt super glamorous in this dress and I'm pleased that I tried (and liked) a shape that's out of my comfort zone. Have you seen the super cute top version of the Solina pattern? I'm 100% making one this summer!

Tuesday, March 31, 2020

For my birthday (I'm 37 today...yikes!!!), I usually like to make a new dress. This year's dress still needs hemming though, so I thought I'd show you another recent make instead!

Meet my second Tilly and the Buttons Indigo Dress...she's a grizzly little bear. Not really, but the amazing grizzly bear crepe was from Fabric Godmother ages ago, who always has such a great ex-designer/deadstock collection.

I made the exact same fit alterations as I did for my leopard print version, but because crepe is heavier than viscose, this dress has ended up longer which I don't mind. At the time, I wanted a speedy make, so I left out the pockets, went for plain sleeves/waist and made the bold decision not to add waist ties. Loose styles are never the best look on me because of my big bust and admittedly this looks better from the front than it does the side or back. But, I love it nonetheless - it's super cute thanks to the print and as comfy as you'd imagine!

My favourite thing about this dress is that you can wear it loose, or pair it with a cropped cardigan/jumper for an instant cinched in look. So it really is the best of both worlds!